I C You... Vitamin C in Skincare: The Science, Benefits, and Formulation Challenges Explained

You’ve probably heard about vitamin C — it’s one of the most popular ingredients in both skincare and wellness. But have you ever wondered why it’s so celebrated, or how it really benefits your skin?

In this post, we’ll explore the fascinating history of vitamin C, its proven skin benefits, and what makes it both a formulator’s dream and challenge.

A Short History of Vitamin C

The story of vitamin C begins in 1747 with Scottish physician James Lind, who discovered that sailors suffering from scurvy — marked by dry, rough skin, poor wound healing, and fatigue — improved dramatically when given citrus fruits.

In the 1920s, Hungarian biochemist Albert Szent-Györgyi isolated the compound responsible for this recovery. Originally called hexuronic acid, it was later renamed ascorbic acid (vitamin C). His discovery earned him the Nobel Prize in 1937 and sparked global interest in the nutrient’s vital role in health and longevity.

Why Vitamin C Matters for Skin and Wellness

Vitamin C is essential for many processes in the body — and it’s particularly valuable for the skin.

It:

• Supports collagen production, helping maintain firm, youthful-looking skin.

• Protects against oxidative stress, neutralizing free radicals that contribute to aging.

• Helps prevent photoaging, reducing sun-related skin damage.

• Boosts immune defense, supporting the body’s ability to fight infection.

• Reduces inflammation, helping to calm redness and irritation.

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How Vitamin C Brightens and Protects the Skin

Vitamin C is a natural skin brightener that helps even out tone by reducing the formation of melanin — the pigment that causes dark spots and hyperpigmentation.

Research published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology found that topical vitamin C significantly reduced hyperpigmentation and improved skin brightness in just 16 weeks.

The study also noted that vitamin C: “Has an anti-aging effect by increasing collagen synthesis, stabilizing collagen fibers, and decreasing collagen degradation.”

When combined with vitamin E, the two antioxidants work synergistically to protect skin from oxidative stress — a key contributor to dullness and premature aging.

The Best Sources of Vitamin C

While citrus fruits often take the spotlight, many colorful fruits and vegetables are also packed with vitamin C, including bell peppers, strawberries, broccoli, and spinach.

Humans can’t synthesize vitamin C, so it must be obtained through diet or topical application.

The Formulation Challenge: Stability Matters

For cosmetic chemists and formulators, vitamin C is both powerful and finicky.

Ascorbic acid, the pure form of vitamin C, is highly active but unstable — it oxidizes quickly, turning formulas brown and rendering them ineffective. Once oxidized, vitamin C loses its potency and provides no real benefit to the skin.

To counteract this, formulators often:

• Pair it with antioxidants, or

• Use stabilized derivatives that maintain activity and shelf life.

Common stabilized forms include:

• 3-Glyceryl Ascorbate

• Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

• Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

• Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (oil-soluble and ideal for facial oils)

Each derivative has unique pH, temperature, and usage requirements to remain effective.

Can Plant Oils Really Contain Vitamin C?

You may have heard claims that certain carrier oils — like rosehip or strawberry seed — are “vitamin C-rich.”

In reality, vitamin C is water-soluble, meaning it doesn’t naturally occur in oil-based ingredients in meaningful amounts. While trace quantities might exist, they’re often too low to provide therapeutic benefit and rarely verified by testing.

Without a certificate of analysis confirming vitamin C content, such claims remain questionable.

For a deeper look, check out our related post: The Mysterious Case of Vitamin C in Skincare — Can Plant Oils Contain Vitamin C?

Formulation, Claims, and Integrity

Formulating with vitamin C requires knowledge, precision, and an understanding of ingredient interactions — including how pH, antioxidants, and preservatives influence stability.

It’s also important to make truthful, compliant claims. While vitamin C can improve the appearance of brightness and firmness, formulators can’t claim internal effects like collagen synthesis or melanin reduction.

The Bottom Line

Vitamin C remains one of the most researched and respected ingredients in skincare. When properly stabilized, it helps to:

• Brighten and even out skin tone

• Support a more youthful appearance

• Protect against oxidative and environmental stress

If you’re looking to experience these benefits for yourself, try our: Blue Tansy Facial Oil – rich in oil-soluble vitamin C and calming botanicals or Ginseng Firming Treatment Oil – a rejuvenating blend that supports skin tone and elasticity both are crafted with a stabilized, oil-soluble form of vitamin C and thoughtfully chosen ingredients to nourish and revitalize your skin. (Or if you're looking to add a Vitamin C product to your line? We can help. Book a discovery call today)

Do you use vitamin C in your skincare routine? Share your experience or favorite products in the comments — I’d love to hear your thoughts!

Aromatic blessings,Tricia

1. Clinical efficacy of topically applied vitamin C associated with madecassoside on skin aging

Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, Volume 58, Issue 2, AB24 2. Al-Niaimi, F., & Chiang, N. Y. Z. (2017). Topical Vitamin C and the Skin: Mechanisms of Action and Clinical Applications. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 10(7), 14–17.