The Science of Chill: Formulating With Menthol

If you’ve ever swiped on a peppermint lip balm, rubbed a cooling muscle salve onto tired shoulders, or breathed in the bright, crisp aroma of peppermint essential oil—you’ve met menthol. It’s one of nature’s most unforgettable sensations. Found naturally in peppermint (Mentha × piperita) and corn mint (Mentha arvensis), menthol has been woven into wellness traditions around the world for centuries.

From easing digestive discomfort to helping the mind unwind before bedtime, peppermint and menthol have earned their place in both folk remedies and modern formulations.

As a formulator, I love using menthol in products that invite refreshment and relief—balms for achy muscles and joints, clarifying shampoos, cleansing conditioners, invigorating scalp scrubs, and aromatic shower steamers. It brings that iconic cooling,

tingling sensation while also supporting clear breathing and offering a refreshing uplift.

But what actually creates that icy, cooling feeling—especially when nothing is physically cold?

It all comes down to how menthol communicates with the body. Menthol binds to TRPM8 receptors—tiny sensory channels on nerve cells often referred to as the body's “cold detectors.” When menthol interacts with these receptors, it sends a signal to the brain that mimics cold temperature, even when the skin itself isn’t cold. This is why menthol feels instantly refreshing and can help ease tightness or tension in tired areas of the body.

Beyond the sensory experience, research suggests menthol may help support comfort by interacting with pathways connected to pain perception and relaxation. While there’s still more to learn, studies continue to explore how menthol may play a supportive role in soothing discomfort.

Thinking of Formulating With Menthol?

A few helpful guidelines:

A little goes a long way.Even 0.2–0.3% can feel strong in hair or scalp products. For balms or body care, you might work in the 0.5–2% range—though therapeutic blends can go much higher (sometimes 10% or more).

It prefers oils.Menthol is oil-soluble and almost insoluble in water or glycerin. It dissolves beautifully in warmed carrier oils, alcohol, and essential oils. With a melting point around 42°C (107°F), menthol crystals blend easily into salves, balms, and ointments.

You can also rely on essential oils.Peppermint and corn mint essential oils are excellent natural ways to build menthol into a formulation. A scalp scrub I created included peppermint, tea tree, and eucalyptus essential oils and packed a wonderful tingly punch without adding any menthol crystals.

Whether you’re a formulator or simply someone who loves the sensation, menthol offers a beautiful fusion of chemistry, botanical tradition, and sensory wellness.

Do you enjoy formulations with menthol? Have you worked with it in your own creations? I’d love to hear.

Aromatic blessings,

Tricia

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